David Bruce Winery

Back in the late 80s, one of my first experiences of Chardonnay from the Santa Cruz Mountains was with one made by David Bruce. It was a fitting introduction to one of the varietals that produces simply outstanding results in a tricky, fog-infested maritime climate. When the young Dr. David Bruce established his vineyard and winery over 40 years ago, he was focused on Pinot but, thank goodness, he had a soft spot in his heart for white Burgundy, so he planted some Chardonnay on the hillsides along with Pinot.

Although this wine is not made from that estate fruit, it reflects beautifully the mountain terroir from which it hails. From the Nelson Brothers vineyards, this Chardonnay is huge in the tropical fruit department. The nose is filled with warm vanilla, brioche and ripe tangerines. On the palate, it is brim-filled with lovely flavours of Comice pears, Mandarin oranges, mangoes and very pretty notes of toasty oak. There is vibrant acidity to accompany the rich fruit salad, and as is typical of these mountain Chards, it is just coming into its vibrant teenage years. It’s about ready to be a spectacular debutante and will certainly go on to mature gracefully into a lovely smooth-skinned, gracious Grace Kelly-like model of decorum: alas, she will be rather lonely in the cloistered estate cellar, so do come and consider liberating a bottle or two for your own enjoyment.

Reviewed June 30, 2008 by Laura Ness.