Casa Nuestra

Casa Nuestra owner Gene Kirkham and winemaker Allen Price are producers who make finished wines in the old-fashioned way – and that’s a huge plus for my palette.

Here, we have a typical Cabernet Sauvignon that the iconoclastic Kirkham and Price have been turning out on the Silverado Trail since the 1970s. That is, I’m going to say it – wait for it – they make wines that are consciously intended to go with food. (Remember the rap that that phrase took back in the late ‘80s? Well, I think it’s about time to revitalize the notion in light of the fact that I think so many wines today are out of whack, and therefore, anathema to food.)

Anyway, this 2003 from a spotty vintage is just the ticket for lamb or beef, or even chingale. It’s in fine balance with fruit from 18-year-old, dry-farmed vines that impart raspberry and black cherry flavors common to a St. Helena Cab. It also has excellent acidity, which is tasting somewhat astringent at the moment. But that will integrate with time – let’s say two years out and for the next 15. The fine-grained tannins will lend a hand, too, ensuring that it will be a keeper.

The listed alcohol is a very manageable 13.9 percent, from grapes picked at 25.5 percent. The precise oak regimen is unspecified but French wood was used – and if I know Kirkham and Price – they used a goodly portion of neutral barrels. The only downside here is that a mere 90 cases were made.

Reviewed July 4, 2006 by Alan Goldfarb.