Leelanau Wine Cellars

Leelanau Cellars near the Northern tip of the Leelanau Peninsula feels a bit like the rebel of this wine region. This impression is enhanced by its young winemaker’s James Dean looks and cool demeanor – you can almost envision Shawn Walters with a pack of cigarettes rolled up in his T-shirt sleeve, sitting on a Harley, or maybe cruising in a VW bus…

His wines tell a somewhat different story – not that his is a bad one.

Although Leelanau Cellars makes a lot of wine by Michigan standards – 70,000 cases, counting fruit and bulk brands – Shawn is most proud of his premium estate wines, grown on approximately 70 acres of the peninsular area (some fruit also coming from Old Mission Peninsula, next door).

He should be proud, since he makes a full range of excellent wine, including some spectacular whites – particularly a deliciously aromatic Vignoles – and fine reds.

Shawn’s latest medal-winning effort (Gold at the Great Lakes Wine Competition) is his 2005 Meritage, a blend of 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Cabernet Franc, and 22% Merlot. Only 250 cases were made of this 13.5% table red, which has smooth tannins, lots of fruit, not too much oak, plenty of varietal character and a long finish. This wine would never be confused with a Californian red; it is more elegant, leaning to the Bordeaux model. And this is a good thing.

Reviewed August 7, 2006 by Craig Pinhey.