Sheldrake Point Vineyard

Sheldrake Point – both the geographical point and the vineyard – jut prominently from the western shore of Cayuga Lake, with vines stretching almost the whole way to the water.

The combination of deep glacial soils and the moderating effects of Cayuga’s deep waters provide superior conditions for growing fine quality vinifera grapes – a unique microclimate that they call the “Sheldrake Effect.” The 400-foot depths heat and cool more slowly than the surrounding land. These unique growing conditions keep bud break from happening too early in the spring, lower daily swings in temperature, and the chance of early autumn frosts. The soils at Sheldrake are predominantly well-drained Howard gravelly loam, derived from shale, limestone and slate, and are considered ideal for grape production.

To most, including me, the Finger Lakes region shines with white wines but struggles with reds. Many reds from the region never achieve full ripeness, leading to lean, somewhat green tasting wines.

This wine avoids those under-ripe pitfalls. With this Cabernet Franc, winemaker Dave Breeden has made a wine to be proud of. Medium crimson in the glass, the aromas are intense and ripe with raspberries, a little smoky oak and a wisp of fresh mint. On the palate, the intensity continues with straightforward raspberry and blackberry flavors, smooth tannins and just enough oak to keep it from being boring. Absolutely gulpingly delicious.

Reviewed September 14, 2006 by Lenn Thompson.