Sheldrake Point Vineyard

If I had to pick one wine to drink with dinner for the rest of my life, it would be Riesling. Sure, it'd mean giving up steak and probably burgers as well, but well-made, balanced Riesling is among the most versatile wines with food.

Luckily, as a New York resident, there are many great local Rieslings readily available. German -- particularly those from the Mosel -- are my absolute favorites, but the Finger Lakes region of New York is responsible for what I consider to be the best bottles this side of the Atlantic Ocean.

Truth be told, vinifera grapes shouldn't succeed in central New York. But, the narrow, deep Finger Lakes gather and hold enough heat in the summer to stretch the growing season into the fall and stave off early frosts.

As anyone who has ever visited the Finger Lakes knows, quality varies greatly from producer to producer. You might have to taste five or ten sweet, one-dimensional Rieslings before getting to one like this 2005 Dry Riesling from Sheldrake Point.

A light yellow in the glass with a subtle greenish tint, the nose is fresh with ripe, crisp apple and lemon zest aromas accented by brown spice notes. Balance is the key to any great Riesling and winemaker Dave Breeden achieves that here. This is a dry, light, clean wine with citrus flavors up front that turn to green apple and pears on the finish with just a little mineral quality. Fresh, palate-cleansing acidity balances the substantial fruit flavor here. Very well done and a great choice with anything from Thanksgiving turkey to Chinese takeout to Mexican food.

Reviewed November 21, 2006 by Lenn Thompson.