Crescendo2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Koves-Newlan Vineyard
(Yountville ~ Napa Valley)
Winemaker Tim Callahan was the winemaker at Koves-Newlan in Yountville when he custom-crushed this wine for negociant Crescendo Hills Vineyard at Artesa Winery in the Carneros. However, the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes came from Koves-Newlan’s estate vineyard (the Malbec, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot are from the Hillview Vineyard just a half-mile up the road and south of Yountville). K-N since has been sold, so Callahan is now the winemaker for Crescendo.
I liked this wine a bit better than Crescendo’s other Cab-based wine it calls Virtuoso. The regular bottling is young and closed, as one might expect of such a young wine. But once in the mouth, it’s smooth with a substantial backbone, excellent depth and balance. Hold it for a year and then drink it over the ensuing seven.
The wine was fermented in French oak, 45 percent of which was new, 35 percent was 1- and 2-year-old barrels, and the remainder was even older. The listed alcohol is 14.2 percent and there were only 800 cases produced.
Reviewed December 30, 2006 by Alan Goldfarb.
Alan Goldfarb has been writing about and reviewing wine for 17 years. His reviews have been published in the St. Helena Star, San Jose Mercury, San Francisco Examiner, Decanter, and Wine Enthusiast, among others. Not once has he used a point system, star system, or an iconic symbol to quantify a wine. What counts in Mr. Goldfarb’s criteria when judging a wine is: how it tastes in the glass; is it well-constructed; its food compatibility; and presence of redeeming regional attributes.