Channing Daughters Winery

Channing Daughters Winery, one of only three wineries in the Hamptons Long Island AVA, is arguably the most unique wine producer on Long Island, and maybe the eastern seaboard. Yes, in a region making mass quantities of Merlot, Channing Daughters is more than a little different. While they do make wine from Long Island's supposed signature grape, it is not their focus. Far from it actually.

Instead, the focus is set squarely on white wines, some of the most distinctive, nuanced whites around. They grow several varieties not grown anywhere else on the East End — varieties like Aligoté, Malvasia Bianca, and Muscat Ottonel. And winemaker Chris Tracy uses these and other grapes, as well as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Grigio to make small quantities of a wide array of unique, terroir-driven wines that sell out quickly to their loyal and sometimes-rabid wine club.

Their Chardonnay portfolio spans a great many styles, from the steely, super-crisp Scuttlehole bottling all the way to the deep, rich, complex L'enfant Sauvage (which takes over a year to ferment with native yeasts).

This 100% Chardonnay wine, made with fruit from their Brick Kiln vineyard, was whole cluster pressed and barrel fermented. It displays inviting aromas of ripe, juicy pears, vanilla, baking spice and just a small squirt of lemon. In the mouth, the spices really come through — mostly nutmeg and cinnamon — with fruity pear and apple flavors on a palate that is balanced and shows just a little spicy lees character. The finish, which is medium long, has a distinct pear note with a little butter.

Reviewed February 2, 2007 by Lenn Thompson.