Cherry Creek Cellars

Of the limited plantings of red vinifera varieties in Michigan, Pinot Noir is in the majority. Early bottlings from very young vines were criticized for shy hues and weak palate fruit. Today, more mature vines are being crafted into Pinot Noirs of substance with good color and true varietal characteristics. The 2006 Pinot Noir from Cherry Creek Cellars is among them. Fruit originates from the estate vineyard owned by Denise and John Burtka, located near Jackson, Mich., in the south-central part of the state.

Appealing depth of color attracts the eye first. Then dark cherry fruit, dried rose petals, dried leaves and forest floor characteristics dominate aromas that lead to interesting flavors with generously-balanced oak presence. Here’s a wine with a regional footprint that looks like Pinot Noir, smells and tastes like it. There won’t be a 2007 but winemaker John Burtka remembers the happy birds that stripped vines of all his Pinot Noir that year. Success with the 2006 won’t let that happen ever again.

Sausage-stuffed grilled quail, Asian-style wild-caught salmon and Middle-Eastern style shish kebabs will dance on your palate with this Pinot Noir.

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Reviewed April 17, 2008 by Eleanor & Ray Heald.