Hunter Hill Vineyard & Winery

Now here is something completely different, at least in these parts: a blend of Bordeaux varieties with a bit of beauteous Roussanne thrown in: not your typical combo, but you know, hunters will wipe their knife against a pair of fine wool trousers, or leather chaps, or perhaps even silk long johns. You make do with what you have handy. Winemaker Van Slatter likes playing around with this particular blend: the recipe is technically a secret, so the formula is approximate. Regardless, it’s a popular concoction at the Hunter Hill winery, and cases off it fly out the door on release days like ducks heading for a rice field at harvest time. Or maybe more like Canadian geese heading for a golf course near you, if you are unfortunate enough to live on the east coast.

The nose is dry and peppery, giving away its Merlot core. Flavors are pretty lean, with a good dollop of acid and tannin. It’s a fairly simple wine that has some nice prosciutto accents along with hints of shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Its simple, but straightforward structure makes it a versatile quaffer that would work with pepperoni or eggplant pizza just as nicely as it would with boar sausage and cabbage, or perhaps even duck confit. This is the kind of blend that doubtless some clever French winemakers have created for their own personal use, but wish they could legally bottle and sell. Ah, the freedom of the New World: it’s a beautiful thing! And what a great price. It can’t be beat.

(Alc: 14%, Retail: $15)

Reviewed February 9, 2007 by Laura Ness.