Bodegas Aguirre Winery and Vineyards

Dr. Ricardo Aguirre is a cardiovascular surgeon by day: a winemaker in his other life, a life that is rapidly becoming overwhelmed by a successful winery that started out as a “retirement project.” …Ha!

At this point, he needs to keep working just to keep the money flowing to fund the fast-growing, award-winning wine business. “If I had any idea how much work this would be, or how much it would cost…” he confessed in a recent interview. But at the same time, he is mighty proud of the fruit he is growing and of the wines he has been able to produce at his Bodegas Aguirre Winery.

His philosophy is simple: make wines you like to drink. It turns out he has a knack for making wines other people like to drink as much as he does. Take this Cabernet. It’s not atypical in that it’s more of a Bordeaux blend than a straight Cab: it’s comprised of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 5% of Malbec, Petite Verdot and Cabernet Franc.

From the color alone, you know it is going to be something special. It’s a gorgeous dark cherry cola hue, with aromas of fabulous cigar, cassis, elderberry and herbs. It is big and fat in the mouth, with acres of cherries, chocolate, elderberries, herbs and sweet tobacco. It has a great balance of acid and tannin, and although the wood tastes extremely expensive, it adds a dramatic caramel and toasty note. The finish is as fine as they come: it’s Cuban cigar (thanks, Fidel), and in fact, I take that back: it reminds me more of the finest Macanudo I’ve ever had, so that would be Jamaican, mon. This wine is smokin’, no matter what cigar you’re lusting after. This is the real deal, and don’t forget, it’s from Livermore, where you will find the best values in truly remarkable, and truly drinkable, Cabernet: perhaps some of the best values in big, but drinkable Cabernets to be had in the entire state.

(Alc: 13.5%, Retail: $34)

Reviewed November 1, 2006 by Laura Ness.