Starling Lane Winery

The Ortega grape is a German cross of Müller-Thurgau and Siegerrebe, ubiquitous on Vancouver Island where most of British Columbia’s 38 acres of this variety are grown. It is an early ripener that, when made carefully, yields wines that rise above the blandness of Müller-Thurgau but seldom show the excessive Muscat spiciness of Siegerrebe. Grown on the right soil and vinified at cool temperatures, the variety even shows the zesty flavours of Riesling.

Starling Lane’s Ortega – only 110 cases were released from the 2005 vintage – is one of Vancouver Island’s best. The grapes are grown in the tiny but manicured vineyards operated by the three couples who opened this winery in 2005. The efficiency of three growers pooling their grapes and their resources in a common winery is so sensible that one wonders why more small start-up vintners don’t adopt it. What makes Starling Lane work is that each of the six partners have clearly defined roles that complement each other.

The harmony expresses itself in the refreshing and clean wines, including the 110 cases of 2005 Ortega. The wine appeals immediately, sending aromas of freshly sliced melons from each newly poured glass. A barely perceptible effervescence lifts the juicy flavours of limes and gooseberries. The dry finish lingers on the palate. 90 points.

Reviewed September 20, 2006 by John Schreiner.