Since opening in 2003, Garry Oaks Winery on Salt Spring Island has established itself as one of coastal British Columbia’s leading producers. Owners Marcel Mercier and Elaine Kozak have brought focused analytical skills, developed in earlier careers, to the challenge of growing commendable wines in the island’s terroir.

Mercier, who manages the vineyard, has a postgraduate science degree. In his previous career, he led projects in land and environmental management in Canada and internationally. Kozak, who makes the wines, is an economist who formerly was an executive in a public sector trade development organization in Vancouver.

In a dramatic career switch, the couple bought a derelict orchard on Salt Spring Island in 1999, turning it into a successful vineyard and winery. Theirs is one of only two wineries on the island: Salt Spring Vineyards, which is based on a smaller vineyard, is their immediate neighbour.

Salt Spring Island (population 10,000) is the largest of the Gulf Islands chain in the Strait of Georgia, located between Vancouver Island on the west and the British Columbia mainland to the east. Besides several vineyards, the island’s other agriculture includes tree fruits, herbs, sheep and other livestock farms. However, Salt Spring is best known for the many artists, musicians, writers and social activists living here. Thanks to Garry Oaks and Salt Spring Vineyards, the island now has attracted notice for its wines.

Mercier and Kozak discuss how they have tackled their terroir in this interview that took place in their vineyard just before harvest.