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Feature Article
Steve Shepard recognizes the Yadkin Valley is still defining itself. But you have to draw a line
in the sand somewhere.
Discovering North Carolina's Yadkin Valley with Steve Shepard of RayLen Vineyards
"I believe the potential for this region is huge. We can produce world class wines. We can compete with wines from around the world in terms of quality and price."
by
Barbara Ensrud
September 12, 2006
Barbara Ensrud (BE): What brought you to North Carolina as a winemaker, and specifically to Yadkin Valley?
Steve Shepard (SS): After finishing college in 1984, I had completed an apprentice program in Pennsylvania and moved on to another winery in the state. In 1989, after 5 years at Shuster Cellars, I had the opportunity to move to North Carolina to help start Westbend Vineyards. After seeing what Virginia was doing, I felt that the climate in North Carolina was more appropriate to growing vinifera Westbend was actually pioneering the wine industry in the entire state, and they were making great strides in the vineyards with Vinifera. I worked over 10 years at Westbend, before moving on to RayLen in 2000. At Westbend we were in the middle of what would become the Yadkin Valley AVA.
BE: The Yadkin Valley is North Carolina's first AVA. As one of the earliest winemakers in this appellation, what characteristics have you seen evolve that are particular to this region?
SS: The quality and characteristics of the wine have evolved in the Yadkin Valley over the past several years largely because of the increase in the number of wineries. This area has not shown its best yet, but it is only a matter of time.
One of the exciting developments is that many new growers are experimenting with varieties other than the traditional Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Growers are planting Italian and Spanish varieties as well. In the next 10 years, we’ll gradually learn what varieties are best suited for particular sites.
BE: What were the main criteria used to delineate Yadkin Valley as an appellation?
SS: The Yadkin Valley is an area that follows the contour of the Yadkin River. The elevation is a significant aspect of the region, ranging from about 1300 feet down to around 700 feet. This seems to provide the proper climatic conditions for wine grape growing in our region. The winters are not extreme but yet we observe temperatures in the teens overnight which help minimize fungus spores, insect populations and possibly Pierce's disease. Springtime normally brings ample rainfall. Our summers are usually hot and dry which drives sugar to optimum levels. The cool nights traditionally don’t start until September so later varieties (red varieties) benefit from this aspect. All in all, the growing season is long so that the vines have plenty of time to harden off even after harvest. This contributes to the health of vine for a month and a half or two before frost so that vines can slowly acclimate to cooler temperatures after harvest.
The soils vary from higher to lower elevations. The higher elevations tend to have higher percentages of organic matter contained in heavier clay. Clay soils have a greater moisture holding capacity, so during a long dry summer, vines will thrive. Some of the better vineyard sites are on slopes, so if heavy rains occur in the late summer, most of the water runs off. Some vineyards have tried to plant close to the river where the soils are sandy with silt and very well drained, but spring frost can be the worst enemy on these sites.
BE: Has a greater understanding of the terroir of Yadkin led to changes in viticultural practices since you came here? I’m thinking of the trellising systems, for instance.
SS: Vertical shoot positioning or VSP has mostly been the system of choice. The open lyre system is showing up at various locations and it is proving to be the better choice on vigorous sites. The main change in viticultural practice is that trellis systems, whatever they may be, are more professionally installed. Many vineyards in the past used old locust trees or cedar trees for post. Minimal fixed wires (1-3 total) were used whereas now several catch wires (2-3 sets) that are movable during the growing season along with fruiting wires are being used.
Another development is that many new growers are installing irrigation in the first year. Hedging is becoming normal practice as well.
BE: Do you believe the appellation's designated boundaries are valid and meaningful? Do they need to be revised?
SS: The designated boundaries are based on topographic and geological research. When it comes to drawing a line in the sand you have to choose a spot. The original proposed boundaries have been revised to extend further south along the river basin. The boundaries must be valid and meaningful or they would not be there. I feel that there are other potential appellations in our state with unique soil types and climatic factors. Some day we may discover them and when that happens, we’ll have to draw more lines in the sand.
BE: Do you think there are identifiable sub-regions within the Yadkin Valley appellation?
SS: Yes, as I mentioned before, I believe that other AVAs will most likely be discovered in our state. I think sub-regions will also follow. A good example is the Swan Creek area within the Yadkin Valley which is currently in petition.
BE: In the early years, French American hybrids such as Seyval Blanc and Chambourcin were the focus for growers. When did Vinifera come to dominate in the Yadkin, and how did that come about?
SS: I think the Yadkin Valley has the potential to grow many different varieties, which would give us diversity. It's a new appellation. We now know that the soils and climate are appropriate to grow Vitis vinifera, which at one time was thought to be impossible.
Most of the newer plantings and wineries followed the Westbend trend. Vinifera has always been more desirable with wine drinkers or consumers. Planting unknown varieties was risky when it came to marketing so the Vinifera started dominating in the Valley in the late 90’s. Most new plantings now contain some hybrids and so did many of the older plantings. Growers and wineries plant them as an insurance policy in case of disaster. The hybrids are definitely more resilient. Seyval Blanc and Chambourcin used to be the most widely planted varieties but you now see Vidal Blanc, Chardonel and Traminette becoming important players.
BE: Is there a particular grape variety--or varieties--that express this region?
SS: A grape variety that expresses a region is one that offers consistency in terms of fruit character. At RayLen Vineyards, we planted 10 different varieties, five red and five white. If I had to select two white and two red varieties which are most suitable for our site, they would be Chardonnay and Viognier with Pinot Grigio running a close second for the white varieties. For the red varieties, it would have to be Merlot and Cabernet Franc with Syrah running a close second.
Growers at other sites in the appellation may feel differently. At Shelton Vineyards, Riesling may be their strongest variety and at Childress it may be Sangiovese. When you go into the Swan Creek region of the Yadkin Valley where Buck Shoals, Laurel Gray, Raffaldini, and Windy Gap are located, they may find success with Cabernet Sauvignon or Franc or some of the other Italian varieties such as Vermentino. Westbend has shown a tremendous success with Chambourcin. This is the sort of information that will evolve from vintage to vintage.
BE: Do you see a signature style emerging for the Yadkin Valley? And, if so, for which grapes?
SS: Viognier seems to show as the signature white of the Yadkin Valley. Although it is difficult in the vineyard as far as consistency in yields from year to year, the quality of the fruit is always excellent. Yields range from .5 tons/acre to 4 tons/acre or even 0 tons/acre! The skin is thick and tough making it more disease resistant and easier to grow. Marketing the wine is a challenge, though.
The signature red wines of the Yadkin Valley are the blends. This allows not only the terroir to express itself but also the winemakers. Most of Yadkin wineries’ best red wines are their blends.
BE: Have you found that particular clones or rootstock perform well (or not) in this appellation? In that regard, what rootstocks did you choose for RayLen, and why?
SS: Rootstocks and clones are definitely important for success. We still have plenty to learn in our region about compatibility of clonal and rootstock selections. Some growers are taking risks with their pioneering efforts by choosing "new and improved" developments in the world of genetics. It will be interesting to see what will evolve from these efforts. At RayLen, we are growing on 3309,101-14 and SO4 because they work well in our soil type and have a good track record.
BE: How does RayLen fit into the Yadkin Valley appellation? Do you buy grapes outside Yadkin Valley?
SS: RayLen Vineyards is located in the southern region of the Yadkin Valley. We are at around a 750 foot elevation. We get below normal rainfall amounts so dry farming is risky. Our Mocksville vineyards here in Davie County now supply us with 70-80% of the fruit for our wines.
Over the past 5 years I have bought grapes from within the Yadkin Valley and also outside the Yadkin Valley. I specifically purchase grapes outside of the Valley because of longtime grower relations there rather than any other reason. But the South Mountain Vineyard Chardonnay (near Morganton in Burke County) is far superior to any Chardonnay that I have seen in the Valley. Granted the vines are older and yields are maintained much lower but that is only one variety. I have also sold grapes and traded grapes with other wineries.
BE: What factors represent the biggest challenge for growers in the Yadkin Valley?
SS: Controlling vigor, late spring frost, summer disease pressure, birds, and harvest rains. There are quite a few but we are learning more with each vintage.
BE: Is RayLen active within the appellation community? Do you actively promote the Yadkin Valley?
SS: Joe Neely, the co-owner of RayLen, is the president of the Yadkin Valley Winegrowers Association. This association was started to actively promote Yadkin Valley wines as a group. I also help other wineries with production issues in order to enhance the quality of their wine which is being produced within our appellation.
BE: Does RayLen use the Yadkin Valley appellation on its labels? If so, for which wines? Does it seem to be a useful marketing tool?
SS: As our grapes have come into production, we have gradually added the Yadkin Valley to our labels and now have it on six wines. These six are not only Yadkin Valley but are also Estate bottled - Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Barrel Chardonnay, Merlot, Riesling and our proprietary white blend Yadkin Gold. In the next several years more wines will follow.
BE: What do you think is the public perception of the appellation? Is that perception accurate or is it too soon to judge? Has it so far proved useful in marketing? Is there potential for it to become more so?
SS: I’m not sure what the public perception is. I am not sure that they even know we exist. Many folks who enjoy wine still have a misconception of NC wines in general, much less Yadkin Valley. Sometimes the public perception is that if one winery makes inadequate wine, then all of the wineries are producing similar wine. This is most certainly not the case.
Yadkin Valley wines, along with other NC wines, have made significant quality improvements over the past 15 years, particularly over the past five when the AVA was recognized. The industry is growing and with growth comes competition and with competition comes more professionalism and equity investments. One thing about our industry - we don't see each other so much as competitors. Rather, we work together to help the region as a whole improve quality. Working together makes a healthier business for all, so everybody benefits.
I believe the potential for this region is huge. We can produce world class wines. We can compete with wines from around the world in terms of quality and price. We can create an industry that is healthy for the environment and for our state economy. We will probably never be the biggest in terms of quantity but we will certainly make an impact.
I’m not saying it will be easy. We face many challenges which will take persistence to overcome. Look at France in the late 1800's with the Phylloxera issue. Now, with global warming, California is looking at Pierce's disease. We are just a blink of an eye in time, but for now, I intend to try and express the potential of the region as well as myself.
~ Barbara Ensrud, Regional Correspondent – North Carolina
To comment on Barbara Ensrud’s writings and thoughts, contact her at b.ensrud@appellationamerica.com
Steve Shepard (SS): After finishing college in 1984, I had completed an apprentice program in Pennsylvania and moved on to another winery in the state. In 1989, after 5 years at Shuster Cellars, I had the opportunity to move to North Carolina to help start Westbend Vineyards. After seeing what Virginia was doing, I felt that the climate in North Carolina was more appropriate to growing vinifera Westbend was actually pioneering the wine industry in the entire state, and they were making great strides in the vineyards with Vinifera. I worked over 10 years at Westbend, before moving on to RayLen in 2000. At Westbend we were in the middle of what would become the Yadkin Valley AVA.
BE: The Yadkin Valley is North Carolina's first AVA. As one of the earliest winemakers in this appellation, what characteristics have you seen evolve that are particular to this region? SS: The quality and characteristics of the wine have evolved in the Yadkin Valley over the past several years largely because of the increase in the number of wineries. This area has not shown its best yet, but it is only a matter of time.
One of the exciting developments is that many new growers are experimenting with varieties other than the traditional Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Growers are planting Italian and Spanish varieties as well. In the next 10 years, we’ll gradually learn what varieties are best suited for particular sites.
BE: What were the main criteria used to delineate Yadkin Valley as an appellation?
SS: The Yadkin Valley is an area that follows the contour of the Yadkin River. The elevation is a significant aspect of the region, ranging from about 1300 feet down to around 700 feet. This seems to provide the proper climatic conditions for wine grape growing in our region. The winters are not extreme but yet we observe temperatures in the teens overnight which help minimize fungus spores, insect populations and possibly Pierce's disease. Springtime normally brings ample rainfall. Our summers are usually hot and dry which drives sugar to optimum levels. The cool nights traditionally don’t start until September so later varieties (red varieties) benefit from this aspect. All in all, the growing season is long so that the vines have plenty of time to harden off even after harvest. This contributes to the health of vine for a month and a half or two before frost so that vines can slowly acclimate to cooler temperatures after harvest.
The soils vary from higher to lower elevations. The higher elevations tend to have higher percentages of organic matter contained in heavier clay. Clay soils have a greater moisture holding capacity, so during a long dry summer, vines will thrive. Some of the better vineyard sites are on slopes, so if heavy rains occur in the late summer, most of the water runs off. Some vineyards have tried to plant close to the river where the soils are sandy with silt and very well drained, but spring frost can be the worst enemy on these sites.
BE: Has a greater understanding of the terroir of Yadkin led to changes in viticultural practices since you came here? I’m thinking of the trellising systems, for instance.
SS: Vertical shoot positioning or VSP has mostly been the system of choice. The open lyre system is showing up at various locations and it is proving to be the better choice on vigorous sites. The main change in viticultural practice is that trellis systems, whatever they may be, are more professionally installed. Many vineyards in the past used old locust trees or cedar trees for post. Minimal fixed wires (1-3 total) were used whereas now several catch wires (2-3 sets) that are movable during the growing season along with fruiting wires are being used.Another development is that many new growers are installing irrigation in the first year. Hedging is becoming normal practice as well.
BE: Do you believe the appellation's designated boundaries are valid and meaningful? Do they need to be revised?
SS: The designated boundaries are based on topographic and geological research. When it comes to drawing a line in the sand you have to choose a spot. The original proposed boundaries have been revised to extend further south along the river basin. The boundaries must be valid and meaningful or they would not be there. I feel that there are other potential appellations in our state with unique soil types and climatic factors. Some day we may discover them and when that happens, we’ll have to draw more lines in the sand.
BE: Do you think there are identifiable sub-regions within the Yadkin Valley appellation?
SS: Yes, as I mentioned before, I believe that other AVAs will most likely be discovered in our state. I think sub-regions will also follow. A good example is the Swan Creek area within the Yadkin Valley which is currently in petition.
BE: In the early years, French American hybrids such as Seyval Blanc and Chambourcin were the focus for growers. When did Vinifera come to dominate in the Yadkin, and how did that come about?
SS: I think the Yadkin Valley has the potential to grow many different varieties, which would give us diversity. It's a new appellation. We now know that the soils and climate are appropriate to grow Vitis vinifera, which at one time was thought to be impossible.
Most of the newer plantings and wineries followed the Westbend trend. Vinifera has always been more desirable with wine drinkers or consumers. Planting unknown varieties was risky when it came to marketing so the Vinifera started dominating in the Valley in the late 90’s. Most new plantings now contain some hybrids and so did many of the older plantings. Growers and wineries plant them as an insurance policy in case of disaster. The hybrids are definitely more resilient. Seyval Blanc and Chambourcin used to be the most widely planted varieties but you now see Vidal Blanc, Chardonel and Traminette becoming important players. BE: Is there a particular grape variety--or varieties--that express this region?
SS: A grape variety that expresses a region is one that offers consistency in terms of fruit character. At RayLen Vineyards, we planted 10 different varieties, five red and five white. If I had to select two white and two red varieties which are most suitable for our site, they would be Chardonnay and Viognier with Pinot Grigio running a close second for the white varieties. For the red varieties, it would have to be Merlot and Cabernet Franc with Syrah running a close second.
Growers at other sites in the appellation may feel differently. At Shelton Vineyards, Riesling may be their strongest variety and at Childress it may be Sangiovese. When you go into the Swan Creek region of the Yadkin Valley where Buck Shoals, Laurel Gray, Raffaldini, and Windy Gap are located, they may find success with Cabernet Sauvignon or Franc or some of the other Italian varieties such as Vermentino. Westbend has shown a tremendous success with Chambourcin. This is the sort of information that will evolve from vintage to vintage.
BE: Do you see a signature style emerging for the Yadkin Valley? And, if so, for which grapes?
SS: Viognier seems to show as the signature white of the Yadkin Valley. Although it is difficult in the vineyard as far as consistency in yields from year to year, the quality of the fruit is always excellent. Yields range from .5 tons/acre to 4 tons/acre or even 0 tons/acre! The skin is thick and tough making it more disease resistant and easier to grow. Marketing the wine is a challenge, though.
The signature red wines of the Yadkin Valley are the blends. This allows not only the terroir to express itself but also the winemakers. Most of Yadkin wineries’ best red wines are their blends.
BE: Have you found that particular clones or rootstock perform well (or not) in this appellation? In that regard, what rootstocks did you choose for RayLen, and why?
SS: Rootstocks and clones are definitely important for success. We still have plenty to learn in our region about compatibility of clonal and rootstock selections. Some growers are taking risks with their pioneering efforts by choosing "new and improved" developments in the world of genetics. It will be interesting to see what will evolve from these efforts. At RayLen, we are growing on 3309,101-14 and SO4 because they work well in our soil type and have a good track record.
BE: How does RayLen fit into the Yadkin Valley appellation? Do you buy grapes outside Yadkin Valley?
SS: RayLen Vineyards is located in the southern region of the Yadkin Valley. We are at around a 750 foot elevation. We get below normal rainfall amounts so dry farming is risky. Our Mocksville vineyards here in Davie County now supply us with 70-80% of the fruit for our wines.
Over the past 5 years I have bought grapes from within the Yadkin Valley and also outside the Yadkin Valley. I specifically purchase grapes outside of the Valley because of longtime grower relations there rather than any other reason. But the South Mountain Vineyard Chardonnay (near Morganton in Burke County) is far superior to any Chardonnay that I have seen in the Valley. Granted the vines are older and yields are maintained much lower but that is only one variety. I have also sold grapes and traded grapes with other wineries.
BE: What factors represent the biggest challenge for growers in the Yadkin Valley?
SS: Controlling vigor, late spring frost, summer disease pressure, birds, and harvest rains. There are quite a few but we are learning more with each vintage.
BE: Is RayLen active within the appellation community? Do you actively promote the Yadkin Valley?
SS: Joe Neely, the co-owner of RayLen, is the president of the Yadkin Valley Winegrowers Association. This association was started to actively promote Yadkin Valley wines as a group. I also help other wineries with production issues in order to enhance the quality of their wine which is being produced within our appellation.
BE: Does RayLen use the Yadkin Valley appellation on its labels? If so, for which wines? Does it seem to be a useful marketing tool?
SS: As our grapes have come into production, we have gradually added the Yadkin Valley to our labels and now have it on six wines. These six are not only Yadkin Valley but are also Estate bottled - Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Barrel Chardonnay, Merlot, Riesling and our proprietary white blend Yadkin Gold. In the next several years more wines will follow.
BE: What do you think is the public perception of the appellation? Is that perception accurate or is it too soon to judge? Has it so far proved useful in marketing? Is there potential for it to become more so?
SS: I’m not sure what the public perception is. I am not sure that they even know we exist. Many folks who enjoy wine still have a misconception of NC wines in general, much less Yadkin Valley. Sometimes the public perception is that if one winery makes inadequate wine, then all of the wineries are producing similar wine. This is most certainly not the case.
Yadkin Valley wines, along with other NC wines, have made significant quality improvements over the past 15 years, particularly over the past five when the AVA was recognized. The industry is growing and with growth comes competition and with competition comes more professionalism and equity investments. One thing about our industry - we don't see each other so much as competitors. Rather, we work together to help the region as a whole improve quality. Working together makes a healthier business for all, so everybody benefits.I believe the potential for this region is huge. We can produce world class wines. We can compete with wines from around the world in terms of quality and price. We can create an industry that is healthy for the environment and for our state economy. We will probably never be the biggest in terms of quantity but we will certainly make an impact.
I’m not saying it will be easy. We face many challenges which will take persistence to overcome. Look at France in the late 1800's with the Phylloxera issue. Now, with global warming, California is looking at Pierce's disease. We are just a blink of an eye in time, but for now, I intend to try and express the potential of the region as well as myself.
~ Barbara Ensrud, Regional Correspondent – North Carolina
To comment on Barbara Ensrud’s writings and thoughts, contact her at b.ensrud@appellationamerica.com
